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Despite currency and demand fluctuations in overseas markets, demand for used clothing from the UK has remained generally good over the past few years.
Most used clothing in the UK is collected via textile banks and charity shops, however an increasing amount is collected door-to-door either as part of a local authority kerbside collection service or separately by charities and textile recyclers.
While some items of used clothing are sold through charity shops, a large quantity of material is collected for sorting – either in the UK or abroad – and then exported for sale in Eastern Europe, Africa and the Middle East. While these countries provide valuable end markets for UK textile merchants, they are vulnerable to market fluctuations as a result of economic and political pressures.
Material which is not suitable for reuse can often be turned into wiping cloths and specifications have also been drawn up for these by the wiper and cloth manufacturers division of the Textile Recycling Association.
In the UK, the textiles trade has suffered from the dual problem created by the expansion of cheap clothing shops and ‘fast fashion’ — discouraging people from buying second hand clothes while meaning clothes can be less durable when they do eventually enter the second hand market. Additionally, the influx of Cash For Clothes shops opening in the UK means there is increased competition for the good quality used clothing or ‘cream’.
Textile recyclers have also raised concerns about the further difficulties faced as the high value of the material in recent year has attracted a number of new players to the market.
Rising prices have also prompted concerns of theft from banks and door-to-door collections.
Collectors, sorters and reprocessors in the UK are represented by the Textile Recycling Association (TRA) which has developed a Code of Practice for its members alongside other guidelines and codes for the textiles reclamation industry.
The Waste & Resources Action Programme (WRAP) estimated that in 2012 a third of all clothing bought in the UK ended up in landfill, with around 350,000 tonnes of material disposed of in this manner. WRAP said that if this material was donated for reuse or recycling it could generate up to £140 million in revenue. The study also found that 540,000 tonnes of used clothing was reused with more than two thirds of this sent overseas.
WRAP has undertaken a lot of work in recent years to better understand the environmental impact of used clothing and to find potential new markets for material that is not suitable for reuse. As such, the Sustainable Clothing Action Plan (SCAP) was launched in 2009 which saw key stakeholders in the textiles industry outline how they planned to increase their sustainability. One way this is hoped to be achieved is through the SCAP 2020
Commitment which sees retailers, government departments and the British Retail Consortium (among others) sign up to voluntary targets to reduce the waste, water and carbon footprints of clothing by 2020, against a 2012 baseline.
In addition, work has been undertaken to develop end markets for non-clothing textiles, such as mattresses and carpets – of which WRAP believes only 20% of the 630,000 tonnes of material that enters the waste stream every year is recycled.
Textile banks – this reflects the amount that may be paid to a local authority or a waste management company, usually by a collector for material from textile banks. The payment may be amended if the local authority has to pay a bank hire fee or an element of the collection costs and if a donation is made to a charity.
Shop collections – this price indicates the amount which may be paid by a collector to a charity shop for clothes the shop has not sold to the public directly. Prices vary on content from poorer quality material through to clothes and leather items.
Sorting plant (Charity rags) – this is a general term for material in bulk, delivered to the factory of a larger textile collecting business which often exports used clothing and textiles, typically a large Sorting Plant.
|2014: £ per tonne||Jan||Feb||Mar||Apr||May||Jun|
|Textile banks||280 - 370||280 - 370||270 - 360||270 - 350||260 - 350||260 - 330|
|Shop collections||470 - 550||470 - 550||460 - 540||425 - 530||400 - 510||400 - 490|
|Sorting plant (Charity rags)||650 - 710||650 - 710||630 - 690||630 - 680||630 - 680||610 - 670|
|2014: £ per tonne||Jul||Aug||Sep||Oct||Nov||Dec|
|Textile banks||250 - 330||240 - 330||240 - 330||250 - 330||250 - 330||-|
|Shop collections||380 - 490||370 - 460||370 - 450||360 - 450||360 - 450||-|
|Sorting plant (Charity rags)||610 - 660||590 - 640||570 - 620||560 - 620||560 - 620||-|